INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

A Basque farmstead and its surroundings. Santa Marina de Bidegoain district.

Wherever he comes from, the first time a visitor looks at the unique setting of San Sebastián's bay, La Concha, he will, little by little, discover beneath this real-life picture postcard, forever immortalized by the camera of nature, a community, an identity, a way of thinking and feeling, a way of life, a language, a culture and a people: and that is the Basque Country.

Only two words, Euskal Herria, the Basque Country, but so meaningful that is likely that the visitor will come to the end of his stay with a single thought in mind: to come back.

Yes, return to feel on his skin the golden sun of the beaches, and the soft breeze that climbs the endless green valley; or to hear the pounding of the waves in the Bay of Biscay.

A typical fishing Dock. Getaria.

Return to enjoy the smell of the sea in our fishing ports, of appetizing sardines grilled outside restaurants in the narrow streets, of freshly cut grass from inland mountains, of the unmistakable aroma of tasty steaks being grilled, which tempt our palates in the long summer evenings.

Return to gaze at the distant horizon where the two infinites of sea and sky come together; or to contemplate from the top of our mountains a rolling succession of green hills and sharp outlines.

Return to hear over the cliffs the squawking of seagulls scouring the sea in search of food; or in the woods the cuckoo's song joyfully announcing the coming of spring.

URKO: Loa-Loa. (463K)

Return, at last, to enjoy, once more, in the company of people, who despite their initial reserve with strangers, when the time comes for us to leave, stretch out their hands in their own warm manner to say, "Agur, ikusi arte" (good-bye, see you again).

But the Basque Country is something more than the cliché "sea and mountains". It is the result of age-old history full of remarkable events, which describes the life of a people that have contributed to making the name of their homeland glorious, well-known and loved.

A group of young people playing "trikitixas" (Basque popular music) in the town square, Asteasu.

It is a different culture characterized by a unique and exceptional language, by old customs and traditions, and a rich folklore that give rise to a seasonal calendar of festivities.

It is the passion for challenge and competition, and the belief in being the best, that gives origin to the different types of rural sports, all of them good examples of the Basque farmer's way of life.

It is an on-going vivid demonstration of a craft society that, for centuries, has passed on the secrets of a trade, from generation to generation, and is now losing strength; but it is adjusting to the new tastes and artistic trends, making room for the compelling force of new technologies with their different emphasis on work and life.

It is an endlessly creative gastronomy, with an excellent traditional cuisine that, quite often, has been the starting point of the so much praised and renowned New Basque Cuisine.

Every aspect mentioned about the Basque Country is a key subject in the following chapters, but before we start explaining them, it is important to complete the geographical, physical and human description of both the land and its people.

From an orographic point of view, we can speak of two very different hydrological climatic sectors: a northern strip facing the Bay of Biscay, with an oceanic climate, heavy rainfall, and mild temperatures throughout the year; and the extensive southern strip facing the sea towards the Ebro basin, with a continental-Mediterranean climate, and more extreme temperatures, above all, in summer. There is also a narrow, intermediate area, which has features of both oceanic and continental climates.

Settlement in the two main regions has been carried out according to the geographical and climatic environment.

On the Bay of Biscay side, the Basque farmstead, as a basic nucleus, is usually situated at the foot of the mountain slope, surrounded by a little vegetable garden, arable land, and grazing of cattle, of which is often cut off by a pine wood. From above, the landscape looks like a vast green carpet, scattered with an infinite number of isolated white dots.

On the other hand, on the Mediterranean side, the predominant green colour gives way to ochre; here people live in small villages located, at times, on slight slopes, or grouped around a single, more important nucleus. As in the southern regions, distances between villages here are greater.

GIPUZKOA is nearly all located on the northern strip, and enjoys an oceanic climate. The dividing waters of the two seas act, along part of their stretch, as a natural southern border with Navarre and Araba.

From west to east, corresponding to the basins of its five main rivers: Deba, Urola, Oria, Urumea and Bidasoa, the territory of Gipuzkoa is divided into a group of parallel valleys running north-south.

Travelling through any of the valleys, for example through the River Oria Valley, we notice there are not only 1,544 metres difference between the mouth of the river and its course in the Aizkorri massif, but an obvious difference in the nature and the way of life of their inhabitants.

Until a few years ago, both Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia divided their territories up in two main regions: a coastal region, and an inland mountainous one.

URKO: Itxasoa Laño Dago. (255K)

People in the coastal region lived facing the sea (itxasoa in Basque), and both men (the fishermen) and women kept their eyes on that fearful sea, so calm at times, and so cruel at others. They lived off, for and by the sea, and as a result of the many contacts with people from other places had an open nature, and were quick with words.

Isabel Murua. Donardegi farmstead, Urretxu.

Inland, however, the Basque farmer still lived on the same land and farm of his ancestors, where he worked and spent most of his time. Contact with the outside world was rare, just an occasional visit to the nearby villages, either on business, on the occasion of agricultural shows, or to enjoy himself taking part in local festivities, or watching a rural sport, where he could give reign to his fondness of betting. Lack of communication was, perhaps, the reason behind his suspicious and introverted nature, as well as his reputation for being a man of few words.

José Olivares Larrondo, a writer from Bizkaia born in Algorta, who was for many years editor of "Tierra Vasca-Eusko Lurra", and better known as "Tellagorri", gives a good description, using specific daily-life examples, of the difference in nature between the Basque fisherman and the Basque farmer.

"The farmer is quiet, and the fisherman loud; the farmer is very cautious with his words, and is nearly always accurate in his judgements. The fisherman, on the other hand, speaks quicker and shows the charm of not attaching great importance to what he says, to talk just for talking's sake, without wishing to be too precise."

"The farmer lives off the land, and is aware that everything leaves a trace; the fisherman lives at sea, and knows that, even the furrow left in the sea in the wake of small boats and steamers, finally fades away. The farmer seems to have the idea that his words remain written, while the fisherman might think that it makes no difference what figures he draws in the water, because nothing remains."

"On the farm, the husband is the head of the family, and so has the last word. In the fishing ports the wife runs the house, solves the family problems, and brings up the children, because the husband is always at sea."

"But leaving aside other thoughts and reflections, we only have to watch both a farmer and a fisherman playing "mus" (a Basque cards game) to understand, immediately, that great difference between them. The farmer agress to start the game with just average cards; he usually does not bid, and is happy to win three or four points at the end of each round. When he does bid, he risks little, thinks carefully before taking on the other's bid, and very rarely stakes everything on a move. The fisherman wants to have four kings, or good doubles, or thirty one in hand; bids for the points in dozens, takes on the bids quickly and with drive, and challenging attitudes are common practice among fishermen playing mus when they play "ordago" (a bid)."

Even though the aforementioned descriptions reveal the essence of the nature of the modern man of Gipuzkoa, things have changed considerably in recent years, mostly due to the industrial development throughout the province and the tourist boom, mainly in coastal areas.

San Sebastián is a meeting place and a melting pot of that diversity among the people of Gipuzkoa. And from La Concha Bay, where sea and land embrace each other, DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN and the whole of GIPUZKOA welcomes you: Ongi Etorri.

Last modified: Nov, 02, 1999